The head is off! On day 1, 23 km came on the counter of my Sponsorship walk for Street Nurses ASBL.
However, I left with a small heart, because to get out of Antwerp I was told lots of concrete waiting and like last year it was again sweltering hot. Last year, after 7 km, my soles were completely scorched, the skin had peeled off and I was walking on some large, painful blisters.
But now the feet have fortunately held up. In preparation, I had spent two weekends on a test hike of 10 km or so with heavy backpack, and pre-emptively I had put on my soles of feet sprayed with camphor spray. It helped, although it could also be that last year's calluses were still on it....
As expected, I walked mostly on paved roads. Only the short bits through the Te Boelaer Park, Rivers Court, park Klein Schijn, park Wijnegem and a forest near the Anti-tank channel brought a green touch to the long haul.
But from the Kempen this will improve.
Next to 'Marcel Kiekeboe' by Merho in Zoersel
After a refreshing night's sleep on a comfortable sofa at Els van Vlimmeren started the day with a tough choice: either 5 km along the dead boring Zoerselsteenweg, on a cycle path next to the roadway, or nicer nature trails along the Trappist Abbey in Westmalle, but at least 5 km more on the final counter.
Because of the hot weather, I opted for the shorter boring route, and thankfully so, because the total distance ended up being 23.7 km.
When I was in Zoersel next to a statue of Marcel Kiekeboe (Merho) was taking a breather, Els came riding up on her Dax. Just in time for a photo.
From Zoersel, the route went along shady rural asphalt lanes with nice views. The Marian chapel on Salphensebaan (pictured) was installed in 1952 to mark the 25th anniversary of the Farmers' Youth Zoersel. Since then, it has been vandalised numerous times and rebuilt each time by one persistent Mr Fons Schrijvers.
In the woods before Vlimmeren, I noticed a tree stump inhabited by fairytale figures.
The only piece of real nature this day was the Eksterheide, a few kilometres before Beerse. There I passed a Land art work by Luc Vermeerbergen: an elongated circle, inviting passers-by to also spin a few laps meditatively in order to maintain the artwork. With almost 20 km in my legs, I let that invitation pass me by.
The last 2 km alongside the canal were monotonous and tough, but the reception at Elke Van Rulo, one of the hosts at the Welcome to my Garden platform, was all the more cordial. A lovely outdoor shower with hot water even awaited me to wash away the sweat.
A short trek today, and yet it fell harder on me than the two previous 20-plus. The oppressive weather must have been in between for something.
The first section along clay pits was not too bad, but right at noon several kilometres followed via the Schotense Vaart. Murphy was on hand, as of course I found myself on the sunny side with not a crumb of shade. A large brickyard with endless piles of bricks probably added another degree to it.
After that, I was fortunately able to continue my route via wide leafy avenues along farmlands.
When the stomach started protesting, there was nowhere to find a bench or tree stump, so I installed myself in a grass verge next to a large meadow with my backpack as a back support.
The first bench I came across was in a dog pasture a few kilometres before Baalse Hei campsite, my final destination. However, I could not linger there for long, as in the distance it started rumbling briskly and looming pitch-black clouds up. I hoped I could still pitch the tent dry and continued at a brisk pace. This time Murphy kept quiet: the tent got up dry and the first cautious drops allowed me to go to the toilet. When the heavens opened for the long haul, I was under canvas. The ultralight Nordisk Telemark tent (1060 gr) withstood the storm with flying colours.
The little table I had reserved on the terrace in the evening to eat a little something was able to pass me by because of the thunderstorm. Fortunately, take-out pizzas were still available, as I ran out of provisions because I was on my way, except for a strawberry vending machine, no shop had passed. In the empty campsite laundrette, I spotted a table and chair, so I was finally able to devour my pizza at a table after all.
5 June: Baalse Hei campsite - Turnhout station (5.7 km)
Today I took the bus to Antwerp to attend a friend's funeral. Els Van Vlimmeren then took me back to Oud-Turnhout in her campervan.
Snail at Baalse Hei campsite
Already beautiful open weather and no condensation on the tent. Packing everything dry, every camper's dream.
According to Komoot, I had 14 km ahead of me when I took the shortest route via the canal to Ravels took. The escape route next to the canal lay broken up over a long stretch, but pedestrians were able to pass. For cyclists, there was a bit more acrobatics involved. I again had the sun bank of the canal, but fortunately it was much less hot today.
From Ravels, I entered very familiar territory: the Ravel Region forests, where Els van Vlimmeren and I went hiking several times last winter.
A few hundred metres before a small car park at 'the boundary post' Komoot ordered me to turn right to cut off an entire spigot. However, the first path on the left that I had to take next no longer existed. It was completely overgrown with tall grass and brambles. Further on, I could get back on the planned route via a large diversions loop, so I took that diversions for granted. That was outside a private road from the Kruisberghoeve gerekend. As I took the last exit towards the Komoot route, I saw a tall double iron gate in the distance. I was 800 metres away from the planned route; an alternative route would be several kilometres diversions. And I was already at 14 kilometres. I decided to see if I couldn't pass the gate. Right in front of it was the giant Kruisberghoeve, an 80-year-old farmstead that specialises in onions, carrots, compost and also has a vegetable wash. I saw movement there and went to ask for advice. Claudia told me that her brother always closes the gate on Sundays because otherwise too many cyclists and even cars drive through their private road, but walkers were allowed through. She was kind enough to open the gate, and 600 metres later I was back on track.
From there it was only about three kilometres to farm campsite The Dun Donkey In Hooge Mierde.
After a four-year absence, manager Nadja me as the previous times again very cordial. In the log cabin there were folding chairs that I was allowed to use and the log cabin itself was all mine to retreat to in the evening to update social media mosquito-free. After pitching my tent, my opposite neighbour treated Tina Swaager me on a rooibos tea, and when my frozen pasta fungi was consumed, my back neighbour brought a portion of strawberries for dessert. What lovely people all. Heartwarming after a long day of walking.
A quiet start to the day followed by a leisurely stroll with lots of pause moments.
I started this morning with the guided SIT meditation by Tom Hannes. Minicamping Dun Ezel has good wifi, which was not too bad. I had to put the tablet in the tent because the light outside was too bright. Opposite neighbour Tina Swaager took a picture without my knowledge, for which thanks.
I then stepped in a wide arc successively through forest, moorland and farmland until I reached Reusel. As I stepped through such beautiful nature, I felt little of the weight of the backpack. The frogs in the Zwartven gave good of jelling.
I had no choice but to walk straight through Reusel because I needed to stock up on provisions. The last 3 km from the Jumbo supermarket to Van Gompel farm campsite therefore weighed all the heavier: along hot asphalt roads and with approx. 2 kg more in the backpack.
The peace and quiet (only 1 other camping couple), the hot shower and a comfortable seat in the seating area soon drove the fatigue out of the slightly overworked back and members.
Tomorrow, by life and death, it will be again a longer stepping day to Bergeijk, by the Peel Heath and De Kempen border park. I am looking forward to that. I stay on the Dutch side of the border because the nature reserves here are much more seamless. In Flanders, because of ribbon development, it is always a lot of 'asphalt knots' between fragmented bits of nature.
Zwartven near Hoge Mierde
Great stepping day today, albeit with some pensive bits!
The temperature was right of cut. After 600 metres of asphalt track I arrived at nature gate the Brandtoren, which provides access to the vast Peel Heath. For enthusiasts or people with children: opposite taverne Den Ouwe Brandtoren is an exciting adventure trail. For the little ones, there is also a gnome walk.
From there, I walked along leafy forest paths towards E34, which I would later have to cross.
On the way, I passed a reconstruction of the 'death thread' (main photo) that the Germans used during the great war 14-18 constructed to prevent inhabitants of occupied Belgium from fleeing to the neutral Netherlands. That wire did not always follow the border but cut off straights, sometimes radically separating families and preventing some Flemish workers from getting to work in the Reusel cigar industry. Gruesome period, corona is nothing like that.
The getting across motorway was no laughing matter. Both the Komoot and Osmand hiking navigation apps indicated a crossing path. First, several paths leading to it were blocked and I had to detour a serious block. When I finally reached the right path towards the crossing, it turned out to be forbidden. However, I saw bicycle tracks going into it and decided to break the law. Walking around to a subsequent car bridge was miles of diversions on both sides. Emergency breaks the law. The path to the crossing was repeatedly barricaded with tree trunks, which could fortunately still be clambered over, even with a serious rucksack. I thought I was walking parallel to the motorway, when I saw on the app that I was right over the central reservation. Only then did I realise I was on a wildlife corridor sat. On the opposite side, a few more barricades and a barbed wire which I had to crawl under - hoisting heavy backpack off and back on back on the other side, that was the hardest part of all - but then I was finally standing in De Kempen border park, North Brabant, relieved that I had got across the E34.
This was followed by another 10 kilometres or so through border park De Kempen, quite a familiar area. Els van Vlimmeren and I have done many day trips here.
The last 7 kilometres I walked along asphalt roads. After all, I had to walk around a bit to get to the shop to go.
Retrieved from Holiday resort De Hulsdonken I received a very warm welcome. All the camping sites were full, but I was allowed to pitch my tent in front of an unoccupied log cabin and - for which I am very grateful - to use the table and seating on the terrace of the log cabin. I could once again 'dine' (ahem) at the table instead of on the ground. What a luxury and boon. Such lovely people!
16 September: Opening the door at Diamondway Buddhist Centre in Tallinn The centre's meditation sessions are open
