Monday 24 Oct: Visit to the cathedral
Since the cathedral was closest to the hostel where I was staying, I walked past it first.
The cathedral has three gates in three different styles: a Romanesque, a Gothic and a Baroque gate. The latter is the main entrance on the Plaza de la Reina. Remarkably, that entrance is somewhat tucked away on the left side of the façade. The reason is that the large square used to be completely built up. To do justice to the entrance, the architect had it open onto a long straight street. However, after demolition of all that area, that effect no longer played and now the gate is tucked away in the left corner of the cathedral.
The cathedral houses some important relics, including the jar Jesus used at the Last Supper, the left arm of martyr Saint Vincent, patron saint of Valencia, and pieces of Jesus' passion robe.
Research showed that the sacred jar is of Palestinian manufacture from the 1st century BC. Jesus is said to have used the original upper cup during the Last Supper. However, there are about five European cities that claim to possess the original jug based on research, including Leon and Genoa....The base with decorations was added in the 11th century to protect and strengthen the cup. The jug has been in Valencia Cathedral since 1437. In times of war and during the Moorish occupation, it was hidden here and there, including in the Pyrenees. Popes John Paul II (in 1982) and Benedict XVI (in 2006) have celebrated the Eucharist with it in Valencia.
The left arm San Vicente, deacon of Valencia who became a martyr in 304, was donated to the cathedral in 1970. Before that, it lay in Bari, Italy. In 1104, a Spanish bishop went to get the arm in the Holy Land, but on the way back the poor man died unexpectedly in Bari and his luggage remained there.
Furthermore, the museum houses a fine collection of Gothic and Renaissance religious art. To see it all, you will need at least half a day.
Between the current museum area and the bishop's palace next door runs a passerelle that was installed during the plague of the 14th century, so that the bishop did not have to venture into the street.
In the chapel of San Francisco de Borja hangs a work by Goya (1768). San Francisco chases away demons at a dying person. These would later reappear in Goya's series 'Los Caprichos'.
There is also the enormous 'Custodia Corpus Christi', which is carried in the annual Corpus Christi procession. It dates from the mid-20th century and contains 600 kg of silver, 5 kg of gold and 750 gr of platinum, all stemming from jewellery donated by Valencians to compensate for the sacrilege during the civil war 1936-39. The behemoth is 5 metres high and 2 metres wide, making it the largest custodia in the world.
For the other artworks I photographed, I refer to the photo captions.
16 September: Opening the door at Diamondway Buddhist Centre in Tallinn The centre's meditation sessions are open
