Cycle tour 2021 - Belgium/1: Belgian-Dutch border towards the coast

Pleasant reunion with dear people who supported or helped me during my step trip around Belgium.

Sep 17: Berchem - De Klinge (36.62 km) 
After being warmly waved off by my dear neighbour Marina Otto, I took a leisurely start day to Fort Bedmar campsite in De Klinge, less than 40km. 

In Hoboken, just past park Sorghvliet, I noticed that the flat towers I photographed there just last year were now completely empty and gutted.

On the way, I passed by Helene in Kruibeke, my first Welcome To My Garden host family last year, to go deliver a thank-you card there. Unfortunately, she was not at home.

Two kilometres around the block I did the same at Paul and Helene Thyssen. Paul brought a bottle of water after me last year. He was unfortunately not at home; I was now having a chat with his wife.

The kilometres that followed alongside a long regional road across Beveren to Vrasene, I relived the pain on the soles of my feet that I suffered on that blood-hot concrete here last year. I saw the little cafe where I escaped the sun for 1.5 hours around noon, and the little walls and benches along the way where I had sat to air my feet. The endlessly long sections in full summer sun. Until my feet finally forced me to give up and the garden of Annemie and Ivo walking in asking if I could pitch my tent there for a night. I really couldn't go on. It was allowed, and today I saw Ivo again to hand him a thank-you card for their warm welcome.

The last 10 km to Camping Fort Bedmar were very relaxing through vast polder and creek landscapes.

Ronny from the campsite remembered that I had spent several days there last year with foot trouble.

And my condition is not yet that great... I am actually tired from those 40 km flat! Hopefully that will improve in a few days, otherwise I'll never get across the Ardennes.

Art on the road - "Free Foxes" by Caroline Golen
 

Sep 18: De Klinge - Lembeek (50.84 km - 40 m climb) There was a lot of morning mist this morning and it took a long time for my tent to dry. As I only had to cycle about 50 km today, I had time to wait and did everything at my thousand leisure. I watched two squirrels frolicking in the trees for a while.

In the end, it still turned out to be a long day of cycling, in time that is, because I stayed rather long at my two 'thank-you' addresses today. Once past Kemzeke, I ended up on the ravel that I also walked all the way down last year. In Klein Sinaai, near the former station, I saw some greasy tables with mayo, mustard, flour, choco, ketchup, paint in different colours, a goblet of spinach and you name it. Surely it is too early for a student christening, I thought. Nor was it, the local scouts were having a transition party. I didn't know this was so greasy and oozey. Those guys had a blast, though.

After 20 km of cycling, I arrived at Brenda Froyen and her sweet dog Wifi in Moerbeke. It was a pleasant reunion. Her garden and swimming pond have become so beautiful. More on this tomorrow.

At km 35 followed my second stop, at Sonja Boelaert and Luc in Zelzate. They now have a dog: Umi, a cross between a border collie and a shepherd. A very playful animal, I did throw the Frisbee away about 15 times, but Umi kept tirelessly offering it back.

Then it was another 15 km to Malpertuus campsite in Lembeke. Just outside Zelzate, Komoot sent me via a cycling/hiking alley on which you almost crashed or damaged your tyres by bike: with elongated zigzag concrete ridges into which your tyres got stuck. What an oaf of a road builder.... It then continued along the Kapellekesroute, where I visited the 15th-century Chapel of Stoepe passed with a Marian grotto where, should it have been cold, you could warm yourself by the numerous colourful candles burning there.

It is already the third time I have been in Malpertuus campsite stay during a fundraiser: heading to the UK in 2019, part 1 around Belgium and now in 2020. I must admit that the Waasland is very cool by bike. There are many former railway tracks and separate cycle paths right through the fields or along canals. On foot, it was a bit too monotonous for me here.

Stoepe Chapel

September 20: Lembeke - Blankenberge (58.35 km - 37 m climb)
Via Sint-Laureins, Aardenburg, Sluis, Sint- Anna ter Muiden, Knokke-Heist and Zeebrugge.

A little after 10 am, I was packed and ready to leave. By noon, I expected to be in Saint-Laureins to be there, to buy bread for my lunch. But everything there turned out to be closed, even the newspaper shop.

Then cycled on, right on a border road, to Aardenburg, where I was able to get a fresh soup of the day with bread.

In the centre of that village, I passed 'Civilian orphanage The Maypole' from the 17th century. It had to close its doors repeatedly due to lack of funds. In 1929, it was permanently closed for lack of orphans. It now belongs to the Dutch Reformed Congregation.

A little further, I drove through an old City Gate.

In the shopping streets of Lock there was a cosy tourist crowd. I had never been there before. A primal Dutch atmosphere. The Belfort Museum was closed on Mondays.

A little further on I drove past the hamlet Sint-Anna ter Muiden. Hamlet, 'tis to say... Sint-Anna ter Muiden has had city rights since the Middle Ages and is competing for the title of smallest town in the Netherlands (50 inhabitants in 2006). It is also the westernmost town in the Netherlands. What remains of St Anne's church dates from the 13th century. It was once a large cruciform church.

Civic orphanage The Maypole

Departure on 17 September

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