It was a beautiful day with a bright blue sky in Trondheim. By 1pm I went to the ferry terminal to catch the catamaran service to Vanvikan take. While I was waiting there, Tilly on, even with a heavily packed bike. She is Dutch and started in Groningen in mid-April to head north via the arduous North Sea Route. She had already cycled a whopping 4,000 kilometres when we met, and she also went to the North Cape.
Although it was the first time we had seen each other, it clicked immediately and we decided to stay together and take the slightly hilly coastal road from Vanvikan to Lekskvik cycling, and then left up via two tough 6% climbs over 4 in 3.5 km respectively to the fjells, quite large lakes in the deep forests. After these two long climbs, the kilometres began to weigh down and we still had 20 to go to the nearest campsite in Mosvik. Tilly has a very skilled nose for finding nice pitches and found them on the covered terrace of a shooting club. We did not have to pitch our tents, there we had two tables, chairs and at the back of the plot was even a primitive toilet.
We cooked a meal first and when we wanted to install our beds around 10pm, we heard a very loud gunshot nearby. Some people were still hunting there! This made us feel very uneasy, so we decided to wait it out, but pack our bikes again so we could leave in case the shooting continued. Two more shots sounded and then we heard a car driving down the gravel road. Then silence returned and only the tinkling of cow bells and bleating sheep could be heard. So we installed our beds and enjoyed a wonderful night's sleep in the open air.
With Tilly at ferry in Trondheim
Monday morning we were out early for a drive of about 70 km to Guldbergaunet campsite at Steinkjer, where we were to meet a Dutch couple I had met in Putgarden, Germany. We faced some very steep hills on the first part of our route, so by the time we got to Mosvik arrived, we were pretty tired. We bought food from the local supermarket, prepared a light lunch and then went to the only place open to have coffee and rest.
The second part of the route gave us a few longer climbs, so by the time we were Steinkjer reached, we had digested +900 altimeters.
Second meeting with Martin and Marijke
No spectacular scenery today. Mostly we cycled along a road with a lot of traffic, and even 4 km along the E6. Overcast all day and the highest temperature was 14°. Fortunately, we had no rain.
Wednesday was an overcast day and we had some drizzle in the early morning hours, so our tents got wet. Around 9.30am, we saw on Facebook that Els and Biko were less than 12km away and so we waited for her on the street. It was a very happy reunion. The luxury of the motorhome also came in handy to store some of our food and carry the heaviest materials we didn't need on the road.
Around noon, we left towards Lund, where we had to take the ferry the next day. It was barely 14°C, a chilly wind blew from the north straight into our faces. The first half of the journey was landscape rather monotonous: the river to our left between mountains and forests. In the afternoon, the skies cleared and we went around and over a few fjords driven which made the ride much more spectacular.
Els drove the motorhome ahead of us and had a nice parking found at the edge of a lake. We were not actually allowed to spend the night there, but since the next campsite was 28 km away - far too far after a cycling day with many long and steep climbs - we decided to take the risk of spending the night there. Els parked the camper as well out of sight as possible and all three of us - four including Biko, who had the most comfortable bed - slept wonderfully in it.
Unfortunately, it was still too cold to sit outside. The mobile data network was too weak, updating social media was also not possible.
We woke up around 7.30am when a workman came to empty the bins and renew the toilet paper in the toilet - as there was also a toilet in our car park. He greeted us and told us to our delight that the temperature would rise to 25°C during the day. The day also started with a bright blue sky. We ate our breakfast at an idyllic spot on the shore of the fjord and around 10am we left for Lund, some 30 km away, to take the ferry.
The route was again fairly tough with several steep inclines. On a regular city bike, these were real calf bites.... We arrived at the ferry around 1pm and about an hour later we were sailing, unfortunately only for half an hour. After Hofles the gradients became gentler and we were even lucky enough to cycle for about 2 km right along the shore of a fjord. But then the flies started attacking our salty, sweaty bodies... Luckily they couldn't touch my face thanks to my protective main mosquito net.
We stopped in Kolvereid to buy food and update social media via public wifi. At 8pm, we finished that and cycled a few more kilometres to find a suitable place to sleep. Meanwhile, the wind picked up and the temperature dropped, so we had to put on extra clothes to avoid catching a cold.
Breakfast spot by lake
Thursday night we parked the camper on a gravel road near a shed and a meadow. We went to sleep fairly early. The next morning, we were literally eaten by numerous vicious mosquitoes. Tilly and I left without breakfast and after Els cleaned up the camper she followed us. On the way, a few metres ahead of her, she spotted a moose with its calf crossing the road. After about 15 km we found a nice spot where we could drink coffee and have breakfast in the camper.
The sky remained cloudy throughout the day, with occasional drizzle. The rest of the route was, as always, constantly up and down. The frequent shifting had disrupted my derailleur. Saturday I was supposed to take it to a cykkelhus go into Brønnøysund.
From Holm to Vennesund we had to take a ferry. As rain was expected overnight and the next morning, we decided to go on Vennesund campsite to remain.
Friday night my cycling buddy got Tilly Calloz the very sad news that her mother had fallen from 93 and was in very bad shape. The next morning, the poor woman died. The news came as a heavy blow to Tilly, but she realised that her mother, a strong and still independent woman, was better off this way because otherwise she would have suffered a lot and would never have been able to fully rehabilitate. On Saturday morning, Tilly stayed at the campsite to phone her family and decide whether to continue her cycling expedition or not.
Because my bike gears were no longer functioning properly, I had to leave early Saturday morning to get to the first bike shop in Brønnøysund, some 50 km away. The ride was quite easy, no steep hills and mostly a comfortable tailwind. I arrived in Brønnøysund around 2pm, but unfortunately it was cykkelhus closed until Monday. A bike shop in a Sport 1 shop was open, but their mechanic was absent and they did not have the necessary spare parts to fix my gears. They advised me to ride on to Sandnessjøen, the next town with a repair shop about 80 km away, and reassured me that the route was quite easy and that my gears could still handle that distance.
On the way to Åndalsvågen
Els and I decided to continue for a few more kilometres until we reached the ferry Horn - Åndalsvågen and looking for a free roadside camping spot past Åndalsvågen.
Right after I entered the ferry in Åndalsvågen left and began a short but steep climb out of the small harbour, I saw a huge bird fly up from a rock on the shore. It flew a few metres in front of me and its wingspan seemed as wide as the street. Most likely it was a bald eagle, the largest bird in the world. Unfortunately, because I was climbing, it was not possible to stop and take a picture. The giant bird was much faster anyway...
As for looking for a place to sleep, we were very lucky: we found a nice motorhome site along the coast near Tjøtta and enjoyed a stunning sunset by a fordable lake. What a beautiful country!
From the port of Tjøtta I had to drive another 40 km to Sandnessjøen, past fjords and meadows and on my left the impressive Seven Sisters mountains. On a plain by a fjord, I saw another moose with 3 calves, but they were too far away for a photo.
Els was waiting for me at the Petter Dass monument and the church. Petter Das (17th century) was a poet and chaplain who ended extreme poverty in northern Norway.
On the final stretch to a campsite 14 km before Sandnessjøen it started raining and the landscape turned into a variation of 50 shades of grey. There was no wifi at that campsite, so we drove on to Sandnessjøen and spent the night at the motorhome site at the port.
Seven Sisters mountains
Sports1's technician in Sandnessjøen did not have the spare part I needed, but he managed to repair my gears temporarily. I was very happy, because from tomorrow the route will be much tougher again with some steep and long climbs. The mechanic called his colleague in Bodø, some 350 km from Sandnessjøen, and he will replace the faulty gear lever. That means I should try to be there by Friday evening at the latest.
After a few cold days, Monday's temperature allowed me to wear shorts again. The ride began with the impressive Sandnessjøen Bridge, after which the road followed the narrowing fjord and turned into the mountains.
At Levang we had to wait about an hour for the next ferry to Nesna.
Bridge beyond Sandnessjøen
Tuesday's ride from Nesna to Haugland was a long ride of 78 km. It was breathtaking, not only the scenery but also the very fast descent - after a tough and slow ascent - and the ride through a long, rather dark, damp tunnel. Just before Haugland we stopped at a panoramic viewpoint to take some more photos. On the Norwegian coast, the views appear to be equally impressive everywhere.
As the Belgian Red Devils' football team would play the semi-final against France in the evening, we wanted to spend the night at a campsite to watch the match. We arrived at the campsite around 19:30 and found a sign 'CLOSED - STENGTH' at the entrance. We did not understand how this was possible in the middle of the tourist high season.
The next campsite in Kilboghamn was 16 km and several steep climbs away. Too far for my tired legs. So we went into the campsite anyway to ask if we couldn't spend the night there without using the facilities, although after three nights of wild camping and washing only with cold water, I was still longing for a hot shower.
We met the totally dejected campsite owner, who told us that he had had to close his campsite in the afternoon by court order. About 1.5 years ago, he had signed a contract with a company that had very recently been taken over by a Eastern Bloc company, and they wanted him out immediately. A strange story, but the poor man was totally disheartened.
As it was already so late, we decided not to look for a motorhome site, but to park on the school car park above the village, right at the foot of the mountain range. A wise decision, as we witnessed a beautiful sunset and around midnight three moose walked across the school football field where Els had parked the camper.
The highlight of today's rather short (43 km) ride was the fact that during the first of two ferry crossings from Kilboghamn to Jektvik crossed the Arctic Circle. Otherwise, the views and skies were again as beautiful as the previous days.
Today was a foggy day, not at all suitable for landscape photos as all the mountain peaks disappeared in the haze. The drive to the ferry Åsgardet - Ørnes and then on to Storvik was pretty straightforward. After the Storvik tunnel there were a few steep climbs, followed by a long climb to a 3km tunnel near the peninsula Inndyrfjellet.
We drove the camper a few kilometres into the peninsula along a gravel path and spent the night in a clearing, where a few sheep kept us company.
Fortunately, the day brightened and the fog disappeared during the morning. Because the day before, I made it as far as the tunnel entrance at Inndyfjellet had climbed, the ride began with a 3km descent through the chilly and damp tunnel.
Much of the trail consisted of long ascents and descents. On the way, I saw a fox crossing the road and in the forest I saw two moose, at a distance of about 50 metres from the road. At Straumen I crossed the impressive bridge from where the famous maelstroms could be seen.
Els had driven ahead to Bodø to inquire about the spare part for my gear lever. She arrived there around 4.30pm and the spare part was available, but the mechanic would only be there until six and the next day was off. I was at the Straumen Bridge and had to cycle another 30 km along the mountainous route. Impossible to Bodø reach before 6pm. So the mechanic advised Els to buy the piece and have it installed at a Sport 1 shop on the Lofoten. The story of sz cycling equipment continues.
When I got into Bodø arrived, we checked the timetable of the ferries to Sørland. On Saturday, there is only one ferry leaving at 7am. Pretty early, so we decided to go to the embarkationrow and sleep there. Fortunately, there was a sink with hot water in the disabled toilet, so I could freshen up after the long day of cycling.
16 September: Opening the door at Diamondway Buddhist Centre in Tallinn The centre's meditation sessions are open
