Today I exceeded the 2000-km cape During a blood-soaked ride, first around the long Killary fjord, then along the Aasleagh waterfall, where, with any luck, you can see salmon jumping upstream, then continue along lakes, vast plateaus and a stretch next to the water until Westport, a small but bustling town. The pictures speak for themselves.
On the road to Westport
Today back a 'normal' ride through the Irish countryside and along/around the holy Nephin mountain.
The first 13 km from Westport to Newport were via the 'Great Western Greenway', over a former train bed, but still a fairly hilly stretch. Actually, in many places it was a clear cycle path next to the N59, not that fascinating. The Greenway continues for another 30 km to Achille Island, which must be very beautiful, but I didn't have to go in that direction.
After a +90° turn in Newport, I had the wind, which was again brisk, at my back. Fortunately, because I did not have good cycling legs today. Having cycled all the way around Mount Nephin, I arrived in the village of Lahardaun, where I learnt that the Irish had their Whiskey with an 'e' at the end have started spelling after Disagreement with Scotch Whisky brands about a new, faster distillation method that, however, did not improve the taste. There is also a memorial in Lahardaun in memory of 14 local people who died in the Titanic disaster.
Tonight I sleep at a (deserted - I was alone there) 'free contribution' campsite by the lake in Crossmolina, with only a toilet. That's why I'm in a pub for now. Seffens tent setting and straight into the sack.
The so-called 'toilet-only campsite' in Crossmollina turned out to be a night of wild camping. There was not a single campervan parked there. There were only a few fishermen busy with their boats, and local hikers who came to walk their dogs. I pitched my tent a bit out of sight by the lake and crawled in, as there were too many mosquitoes to sit outside.
When I wanted to brush my teeth a little after ten, the toilet block was locked, probably because there were no camper vans. Fortunately, I had plenty of water, and there was no shortage of 'boskes' for other basic needs. From 7:30 onwards, dog walkers turned up, but by then I was almost packed. At 8am I was on my bike for the 80km or so to Sligo.
A little after nine, I was in Ballina, where they were getting everything ready for a annual fair. Ballina is the salmon capital, because the city lies at the mouth of the river Moy, one of the salmon-rich rivers. It used to catch up to 50,000 salmon a year, but now large-scale salmon fishing is no longer allowed. Only casting rod fishing is allowed, and that sport was busy this morning.
Ballina folklore market
Most of the rest of the ride was in drizzle or rain. GoogleMaps also sent me through a difficult country road with tall grass, fortunately only for a kilometre.
This morning it was rainy and I decided in Sligo first the WB Yeats memorial house to visit, a red-brick building built in Victorian style. I was apparently the first visitor and was given a private tour by the local guide.
Yeats regularly stayed in Sligo and roamed there in forests, hills and along coasts. The region remained for him a eternal source of inspiration, although as a poet/artist he had to stay in metropolitan cities to make a living. A little way out of town towards Bundoran is the church where his grave stands with the familiar inscription:
Cast a cold Eye
On Life, on Death.
Horseman. pass by!
Yeats Memorial House
When I left the museum, it had cleared up somewhat with occasional streaks of sunshine, and since my next destination today was only about 40 km away, I decided to make a 10 km diversions to the 'Carrowmore Megalithic Complex', a site where some 30 megalithic 'gang grave monuments' [passage tombs] have been uncovered. The site dates back 5,700 years, the era when agriculture began to take root in Ireland.
During the drive to Bundoran I got some rain showers on me again. Along the way I saw in meadows and peat fields still cairns and megaliths, teeming with them here. The last bit I cycled back across the ocean. In Bundoran, I stayed in a well-equipped hostel with a sea view from my room.
Short ride of 18 km. I wanted to book an extra night at the Bundoran hostel because the facilities and wifi there were so good, but they were full over the weekend. So I moved to the nearest campsite, unfortunately a beach campsite with no wifi or facilities for tent campers. So tomorrow we will continue. Not easy to plan a rest/update day.
Rossnowlagh beach is a very wide sandy beach over which even cars are driven, but the weather is currently too inclement to take a day of beach rest.
Rossnowlagh beach
Made a small diversions to Donegal visit yet another tuneful Irish town. A two-piece music band was playing in the market square. Then via the only road, the N15 - Fortunately for cyclists with a wide breakdown lane - to Ballybofey, past hills and the vast Barnesmore bog.
At Cappry/Ballybofey, a region with little tourism, I stayed overnight at the very recently opened Ulster Way of Finn Farm Hostel, a hostel with only a few beds and a bathroom in a farmhouse near a jumping school.
Eddie welcomed me as his very first hostel guest. He made on 30 January 1972 Bloody Sunday Or the Bogside massacre in Derry, that terrible Sunday when it British army coldly shot dead 14 unarmed and mostly young men during a peaceful demonstration for equal civil rights. After dinner, we had a long conversation about the 'Troubles' and the implications for the Irish people/politics.
Although it had gotten quite late (01:30), this conversation kept me awake for quite a while....
Eddie from Finn Farm hostel
Some 15 km past Ballybofey, near the village of Raphoe, is located outside the ruins of a medieval castle also the large Beltany Stone Circle (64 stones), which dates from the Bronze Age (1400-800 BC).
Eddie from Finn Farm Hostel knew a lot about the history of this landmark.
After the Stone Circle I cycled, quite impressed following the story about the human sacrifice from Eddie, via country roads another 40km or so to the only campsite nearby, about nine kilometres outside Derry, in Elaghvale, just across the border in the UK (Northern Ireland). The camping hedge was the border. Suddenly I had to dig up my British pounds again.....
Next to Elaghvale, but back in Ireland, is the hamlet of Muff, where there are the IOSAS Centre and Celtic prayer garden is located . As I had read a book by Ulrich Libbrecht on the influence of Celtic mythology and culture on early monastic Christianity in Ireland following my trip to Ireland, I thought this was worth a diversion. The life story of IOSAS founder Brother Neal Carlin grabbed me right in the throat again... Boy oh boy, what histories here.
Columba Community and IOSAS founder Neal Carlin
I wanted two nights in (London)derry stay to visit the city at my leisure and then cycle on towards the ferry to Scotland, but that didn't work out. I only found an affordable hostel there for one night. Everything was fully booked because of the Northern Ireland Open golf championships starting the day after tomorrow.
16 September: Opening the door at Diamondway Buddhist Centre in Tallinn The centre's meditation sessions are open
