Around the Adriatic Sea 2026: Dubrovnik – Durrës (Albania) – Bari
The second leg of my cycle tour around the Adriatic Sea: the Balkan countries, probably as far as Dubrovnik in Croatia, perhaps even further…
This morning I booked a guided tour in the 'Museum of Free Derry', which tells the gruesome story of Bloody Sunday (1972) documents. Our guide John's older brother was shot dead by British paratroopers right in front of that museum.
Museum guide John
Due to heavy rain I decided not to cycle today. A few more photos and musings at (London)Derry. Revisiting the pictures, I realised that in Derry, many of the storylines I followed during my trip from southern to northern Ireland converge.
It was an eventful journey that became more emotionally intense the further north I went. I hope Scotland will return to calmer times from sometime next week, with only the normal concerns of the long-distance cyclist: plotting the route, making sure there is enough water and provisions, trying to stay dry, finding daily shelter, cycling hassles and, in my case, raising funds for Cipriano and find good wifi networks to 'serve' followers with stories and photos.
But I definitely want to go back to Ireland, it is a very special and warm country, although not in the climatic sense.
Today I did my last 30km through Ireland/county Donegal driven, until the Foyle ferry in Greencastle. Across the road is Northern Ireland/county Derry.
The cultural difference was immediately noticeable. Just beyond Magilligan Point I cycled for several kilometres next to the barbed wire of a prison with a prison wall within it that was surely a kilometre or so long. Nowhere in Ireland have I seen such a large prison
Village names are only in English. No more Irish. In the villages many British flags. They probably stuck around after the 12 July Orange marches. No Irish crosses more on the cemeteries. Much more expensive entrance fees for monuments. Churches are closed. In Ireland, I have often taken shelter or rest in churches, as there is almost nothing "sitable", not even a tree stump or so, next to the roadway. Fortunately, the people are still just as friendly.
Tomorrow and the day after, I will take two rest days and do some sightseeing here. The Carrick-a-Rede suspension bridge, the longest in the UK, the Bushmills Whiskey distillery and the nature moment Giant's Causeway (main photo), with giant basalt columns, is also within cycling distance. On the way there is also a village that was used as a location for the Games of Thrones television series.
Carrick-a-Rede suspension bridge
Last Thursday on the long ride from Derry to Ballintoy, I had a fine tailwind, so strong in fact that my Belgian flag, which I had attached to my rear pannier, got caught between the derailleur. And now I am riding on our bank holidays begot with a mutilated Belgian flag. Little to do about it, repair was impossible.
I regret having to leave here. Sheep Island View Hostel was a fantastic place to unwind for a few days. Very friendly people, a very beautiful coastline and fascinating hiking trails. Highly recommended.
This afternoon I will take a taxi boat to Scotland and tonight I will spend the night in Scotland, Campbeltown. Probably in the rain, if the weather forecast is right....
Ballintoy Harbour
The second leg of my cycle tour around the Adriatic Sea: the Balkan countries, probably as far as Dubrovnik in Croatia, perhaps even further…
On my travels, I meet so many friendly, helpful and hospitable people.
They deserve a hall of fame.
