Around the Adriatic Sea 2026: Trieste – Dubrovnik
All photos: Balkan photos, city photos. The photos of the cycle route are listed in reverse chronological order. Those of the cities are listed chronologically.
26 March '24 - Day trip to Zaragoza and Goya museum
Last night I had cycled through the splashing rain from the campsite to town to make some final purchases in cheaper Spain.
This morning, fortunately, I had no rain to cycle to town. I parked my bike at the central Plaza del Pilar and could immediately see the majestic Catedral-Basilica Nuestra Señora del Pilar visits. That visit did not last long, I still felt oversaturated with all that Spanish gaudy silver, gold and marble after the numerous church visits last year.
Opposite the basilica is the Goya museum, that appealed to me more.
Goya lived from 1746 to 1828, a turbulent and dark period in Spain.
The realistic statue portraits-he did not show noblemen more beautiful than they were, as was the custom at the time-which he painted on commission from the Spanish court are beautiful, but that work did not really appeal to me.
Its chart series, on the other hand, hit you right in the heart. The expressive series of etchings about the horrors - committed by both sides - of the Spanish war of independence against the French (1808-1804, Joseph 1 Bonaparte, brother of Napoleon) grabs you right in the throat. For security reasons, that series was only published posthumously, in 1863.
The critical-satirical series 'Los Capricho's' testifies to Goya's humanist ideals of enlightenment: He delivers unmistakable criticism of the prevailing Spanish reality: the impoverished and superstitious people heavily exploited by the parasitic nobility and clergy. The hypocrisy, corruption and fecklessness of those in power. The subordinate role of women. The heavy-handed upbringing and poor education of children.... This criticism was not received with gratitude and when the absolutist regime Ferdinand VII returned to power after the war, he retreated to 'la Quinta del Sordo' (the villa of the deaf). Goya had become deaf due to an illness.
He later went into voluntary exile in France. He died in Bordeaux.
Then I wandered around town some more, popping in here and there and photographing whatever caught my eye or caught my eye.
All photos: Balkan photos, city photos. The photos of the cycle route are listed in reverse chronological order. Those of the cities are listed chronologically.
In Venice, I visited the Biennale at the Arsenale, the Giardini and various venues around the city. I also took the opportunity to see the Pinault collection at Punta della Dogana and a compelling exhibition by Michael Armitage at Palazzo Grassi.
