Around the Adriatic Sea 2026: Biennale + various exhibitions
The first leg of my cycling tour around the Adriatic runs from Acquaviva Collecroce in Molise to Trieste, near the Slovenian border.
This morning I had to go to the village, looking for a bolt/nut To remove a loosened bolt from the rear pannier suspension system replaced. At the same time, I had another look at my brakes before the last stage of 700 km. I did not mind this delay, as the rain showers followed in quick succession, not inviting weather to crawl on the bike for a long time.
Because of the rain showers, I preferred to spend the night in a hostel again, as it is easier to get my cycling clothes dry there. The only option was Newtonmore, barely 30 km away, as 95 km to Pitlochrie was too far to club off in one afternoon.
On the way I passed the ruins of the Ruthven barracks from 1717. Which was established to support the Highlands under control After the first (Roman Catholic) Jacobite revolt of 1715 against the Protestant William III, prince of Orange, who had deposed James II from the throne in London. The barracks could accommodate a garrison of 120 troops housed, in two opposing blocks of 60 men, and 18 horses.
A longer drive up to Pitlochrie tomorrow. Hopefully in slightly better weather conditions.
Ruthven barracks 1717
When I woke up around 7am, I immediately heard that it was on the rain was. The rain trousers on, but the cycling enthusiasm sank in a bit... Besides, I thought it was trajectory would disappoint because it closes all the time beside the A9 ran. In the end, everything turned out much better than expected and it even became a very pleasant day of cycling with fascinating pieces of nature.
Until kilometre 30 it went gently uphill. As I paused to take a picture of the landscape using my bike as a model, a group of Chinese, and before I could take my picture, they were all in the picture taking pictures. Done, back car in and away. Peace returned.
The warning at the climb to Drumochter pass (457m) of 30 km no food or shelter turned out to be an exaggeration: there was a B&B along the way and also a train guard's house of sorts. I don't think those residents would leave a cyclist in distress to his fate. And the A9 was nearby, you could hitchhike there. Besides, the climb was very gentle. If the stiff headwind hadn't been there, I would hardly have noticed it was uphill. There have already been tougher stretches this trip.
After that, it was downhill for almost the entire remainder, I didn't have to pedal much, on two 'prick climbs after about 7km before Pitlochrie. All the way gently paddling bulbs to the final destination was not to be.
The region around Pitlochrie, in county Perthshire, strikes me as the Gravenwezel and Brasschaat of Scotland. This is clearly where the most wealthy Scots or British people are. It began with a large establishment of the luxurious 'The House of Bruar' department store, with all the top Scottish and Irish brands, and not just for people: there were also dog beds in hand-woven tweed or Harris at £200 for a robust dog, and a Barbour clothing line for dogs... Crazier it can hardly be, there are still apparently a lot of people who don't know what to do with their money... And me kicking for Cipriano... Who's bed is not Harris tweed, and mine (thankfully) is not either....
This was followed by Blair Castle with a large steeple chase course for horses. Of course, a golf course was not to be missed either. And a number of country houses along the course with a park garden and vast estates. There were clearly no disenfranchised crofters living here....
On the Pitlochrie campsite I stood next to two young French couples who were touring. They were clearly enjoying themselves in Scotland, making a lot of fun. As we were all packing in the morning, two hefty donations for Cipriano rolled in my direction.
En route from Newtonmore to Pitlochrie
Today just about the reverse scenario of yesterday: it was going to be a sunny and rainless day, but in the afternoon the sky turned deep dark and I was overwhelmed by a heavy downpour. Fortunately, there was just a visitor centre nearby where I could occupy myself for a while looking at all the 'Made in PRC' tourist trinkets.
The route was much less cool, at the beautiful heritage village Dunkeld, with a cathedral from 1260, after. Before the construction of this cathedral, there had been a Celtic-Christian monastery since the 6th century, and ra ra ra who did I run into again? My Irish travelling companion Saint Columba from the 6th century. His remains are said to have been preserved here until the Scottish Reformation, and the church and Dunkeld became a flat-topped pilgrimage site. Then this relic moved to Ireland.
In 1689, Dunkeld the scene of a battle between Jacobites and Orangists and all but three houses were burnt down.
Tomorrow I have to head towards Edinburgh, also via a fairly busy route. I am considering avoiding the urban agglomeration around Edinburgh and taking the Take train to Dunbar, where I can connect to the NC1 North Sea Cycle Route.
Dunkeld
Not much to write today. I took in this afternoon Perth the Train to Dunbar transferring in Edinburgh, and then cycled 10 km south to a campsite in Thorntonloch, in the front garden of a nuclear power plant. Maybe that's why the sea water is a bit warmer here....
Dunbar is the native village of John Muir (1838), a well-known Scottish geologist and early conservationist ... Too bad it was already closed, I would have loved to have seen the birthplace of this ecological pioneer.
John Muir's birthplace
Last day of cycling in Scotland today. I am currently 1 mile over the border back in England.
Quiet cycling day with a fair amount of climbing, which started with bright weather and yet again ended with some drizzle. A very steep descent all the way down to a bay, and, of course, just as steep back up.... Had to push the bike for a while, that was a long time ago. For the rest all bikeable slopes.
On the campsite in Berwick - another one from the Motorhome and Caravan Club - I was not allowed in at first. It is a 'bank holiday' tomorrow and all tent pitches were occupied. I said I was tired from climbing and surely there should be 3m² of grass somewhere on the large site, but the lady from the reception was relentless. I was sitting on a step looking for an alternative, when suddenly I was allowed in anyway. A man had entered and said there were there was a free patch of grass somewhere.... I also noticed that the tent pitches are very spacious, I could have easily fit in between them, next to another cycle camper with a narrow tent. How inflexible and unwilling some people can be.... Regulars.
Last photo in Scotland: Steep down into Pease Bay and back up.
The first leg of my cycling tour around the Adriatic runs from Acquaviva Collecroce in Molise to Trieste, near the Slovenian border.
Photos of cities The photos are listed in reverse chronological order. Information about the location is included in the title and/or description. Eva Van Tulden
