To get out of Enneywevvers campsite, which is deep in a valley, I had to climb a slope that even was too steep to push my packed bike up on foot. Fortunately, an Asian guy came strolling down who was kind enough to help push me about 80 metres. He saved me several trips up and down with luggage and bike separately. The whole ride I was in the pouring rain. And to get out of Bristol I had no choice but to go next to hellishly busy roads cycling. I was relieved when I finally reached the 1-km-long bridge over the river Severn reached.
Bridge over Severn river near Bristol
Because of the heavy rainfall and headwind, I stopped earlier than planned and ended up at a campsite with no sanitary facilities worthy of the name: one dirty toilet and a damaged 'pump tank' (you can't call this a sink) full of cobwebs, not cleaned in weeks. However, that farm campsite was listed on GoogleMaps. It did have an apple tree with dense foliage, so I could pitch the tent with little trouble from the rain.
Fortunately, there was the Millers Arms pub nearby, with a good wifi on top, where I spent the evening dry and warm. There I decided to follow the western cycle route 4 towards Cardiff for the time being, as rain and fairly strong north-easterly winds were forecast again on Tuesday. At least by then I would have the wind (and rain) along the back anyway. And in Cardiff is a youth hostel: a dry night ahead without tent canvas flapping.
Arriving back at my tent, I saw in the glow of my headlamp that I had a lovely visit: a hedgehog. Never alone in nature.
I made a wise decision last night: it became a rain ride, but this time fortunately with tailwind, until Cardiff Youth Hostel. There I was able to stay in a group room for £8! Unfortunately, I couldn't book two nights, so a visit to Cardiff won't happen.
On the way, I passed in Newport an impressive ''transporter bridge'. Unfortunately, it was not in operation today. National cycling route 4 led me there, however, but it is only operational from Wednesday. I had to turn right and ride over the regular bridge. Last year, while returning from the North Cape, I also saw such a transport bridge in northern Germany.
The designer of this remarkable transport system was a Frenchman, Ferdinand Arnodin.
Newport transporter bridge
As always with big cities, the drive out of Cardiff was difficult. GoogleMaps wanted me to ride along a busy A-road, but I didn't fancy that, with the perils beside such a road near Brighton still vivid in my memory. A cycling map showed cycle route 88, which would take me back to NC4, yesterday's beautiful, virtually car-free route.
I found a street where route 88 passed, but unfortunately it was an unmarked route. Impossible to follow with just a small overview map on my mobile phone.
So up to Barry, it was a lot of searching and crowding, but once I was over the ridge against which Barry built, I suddenly descended into the oasis of calm of the Porthkerry country park, with a little further on a tavern overlooking Bristol's wide canal.
Continuing along the route to Happy Jakes campsite - one that was not on GoogleMaps - went more pleasantly. As dark grey rain clouds gathered again, I wisely stopped at Happy Jakes. The campsite I was on my way to was still +20 km away.
Again a lot of rain today, making photography with a touchscreen mobile difficult. As I was taking a short lunch break on a wooden bench in front of a grocery shop, a young bird sat beside me with hungry eyes. A few chunks of cake went in eagerly.
In the Gwledig Margam Country Park it was breathe for a while without traffic passing by me. In Port Talbot, I found an affordable B&B and was able to save myself a night of rain camping.
Hungry bird
Left again with rain, but when I Swansea traversed it stopped for a while and I took the opportunity to stretch my legs on the wide beach. It then continued via a cycle route around Swansea Bay and along a detached staircase to heaven (main photo).
Beyond Swansea, the former train route I followed swerved back inland and the steep climbing began again. The last 10 km were mostly uphill, but 'bikeable', except for the last bit through the mud until campsite CwmTycoed. A very quiet campsite in the middle of nature. Very well-kept sanitary facilities, including composting toilets. Each 'pitch' has an outdoor kitchenette, water and a BBQ. Yoert and large pointed tents for rent for those travelling without their own equipment. Definitely recommended for peace-seekers.
Swansea Bay
This morning I was granted an hour of dry cycling. Just before a terribly steep slope However, the heavens opened up again and a storm poured in rain curtain from the sky so that, with my glasses steaming, I could barely see where I was riding. There was nothing to do but wait beside my bike in that drash for a while until the worst was over, as there was no shelter to be found. Fortunately, shortly afterwards the sun broke through the clouds again, and as I was up the hill I saw a golf with a tavern which was open. That came as a relief to have lunch and in the meantime my wet duffle to dry. In the afternoon, fortunately, it remained dry.
After I went on Dolbryn campsite had set up my tent, I was invited for tea and biscuits by Helen Harris and her friends. They were amazed that I do everything by bike. Apparently cycle travel is less popular in GB than on the continent. Granted that the steep hills here in Wales do not invite jumping on a bike....
In the evening, we packed another pot together and chatted a bit in the farm pub at the campsite. Result of that puddle of beer: out of my warm sleeping bag at night in the rain for a puddle. What was that saying of bean and loaf?
Bay of Fishguard
16 September: Opening the door at Diamondway Buddhist Centre in Tallinn The centre's meditation sessions are open
