May 3: Saint-Jean de Luz - Capbreton (44.2 km - 430D+)
From Saint-Jean to Biarritz have I Eurovelo 1 followed: it was a very tough route: always steep uphill, immediately followed by a plunge, and no flat stretches at all. The Eurovelo is called 'Velodyssée' here, but I think many cyclists consider it more of a velocalvary....
My legs were starting to feel a bit sour and sore by the time I reached Biarritz and I decided to take a long lunch break at a surf café with a panoramic view of the Atlantic Ocean. There are worse places to rest and have lunch.
At a roundabout in Biarritz I was almost hit by a car trying to turn right while I was still driving on to the next exit. I saw him coming and braked as I turned sharply right. The motorist also braked when he saw me. When we both came to a stop, there was no more than 20 cm between my bike and the car. Some pedestrians shouted 'Oh la la' when they saw it happen. The motorist drove on without apologising
To Bayonne the roads were busy and noisy. I felt tired, both physically and mentally, and was beginning to consider switching to back roads with less traffic tomorrow, when suddenly the traffic disappeared and I spent the last 10 km even through the forests of the Landes cycled on a beautiful traffic-free cycle path. Long enough to shake off my fatigue and negative feelings and arrive at the campsite in good spirits.
The temperature rose to 29 degrees today and after pitching my tent, I had time for a dip in the ocean. Swimming, however, was not possible. The violently breaking waves knocked me over every time, pulling me along for a few metres. But I'd rather be knocked over by a breaking wave than by a braking car....
4 May: Capbreton - Cap de l'Homy (61.6 km - 440D+)
The contrast with the 'velocalvarie' of yesterday was great: after crossing the coastal town of Capbreton and its marina, I cycled along beautiful bike paths, first behind the dunes and then through the endless forests of the Landes. How much I enjoyed the fresh smell of the pine trees! Now does Eurovelo-1 his name Velodyssée honour!
The only fun spoiler was the headwind, but in the forests it was not as strong as along the coast.
I drank a coffee and went to the supermarket in Vieux-Boucau-Les-Bains.
As I cycled on again, Els called me about the next campsite. After the call, I continued on Eurovelo-1, a long and straight cycle path through the forest. My GPS gave me no instructions so I kept going until I suddenly found myself in Leon was, a village located on a lake 6 km inland, when in fact I was supposed to follow the coast. I looked on the GPS and I had indeed deviated 5 km inland from my programmed route. The sound of the GPS was off, so I couldn't hear the instructions! I assume it was automatically switched off during the phone call. A 5km diversions, fortunately a flat one.
The whole route today was a true cycling delight, so beautiful and peaceful. I felt very grateful.
5 May: Cap de l'Homy - Le Frezat (75.4 km - 610D+)
Down to the city Mimezan I continued my way through the Landes forests on the car-free Eurovelo cycle path. Once I crossed the dunes to look at the beach and the ocean. Thirty years ago, I spent a few days in Mimezan When I returned from the Pyrenees. I wondered if it would have changed. I don't remember exactly what it was like, but the 'feel' of the village square with the old church and one restaurant was still the same. No high-rises or big apartment buildings like in Spain.
Beyond Mimezan I sometimes had to cycle on departmental roads. After so many kilometres on isolated cycle paths, I had to get used to car noises again. One gets spoiled fast....
On the eastern shore of Lake Biscarosse and Parentis I passed some picturesque marinas and little beaches. It was so peaceful there.
Biscarosse is a more touristy town, so we went a few kilometres further in search of a rural campsite.
May 6: Le Frezat - Audenge (41.2 km - 270 m)
The first 8 kilometres on the eastern shore of Lake Biscarros and Paternis were very relaxing. Being on the eastern side of the lake, I avoided Arcachon and the Dune de Pila and took a shortcut from Sanguinet directly to Mios along the D-3 'Route de Bordeaux': a 17-km straight D-road with no cycle path and no place to stop. Fortunately, the wind was blowing from behind today, so I progressed pretty fast on this somewhat dangerous stretch.
I stopped for lunch in Mios, the first village after this stretch. In the parking lot of the 'Rotisserie', I saw the motorbikes of two Portuguese bikers who are touring Europe in 800 hours on 50cc bikes.
After Mios I could follow another isolated cycle path until Audenge.
May 10: Soulac-sur-Mer - Saint-Savinien (68 km - 570D+)
On Tuesday night we camped near Soulac-sur-Mer, an authentic coastal town with well-preserved Belle Époque-style villas. It is also called the "city of 500 villas". A very wide perimeter of it is classified. The city is special enough to make a short photo essay of it with street scenes and the most unusual buildings.
The remaining 10 km of Soulac to the ferry across the rivers Garonne and Dordogne to Royan I cycled through a beautiful dune forest. We had to wait almost 2 hours for the next departure.
From Royan, a lively coastal town, I started cycling inland. So from now on, my photo reports will again be more varied than just forests, dunes and beaches and include more architecture and culture.
I photographed the simple but beautifully understated churches of Saujon and Corme-Royal. The latter is a typical example of Roman and Gothic art in the ancient province Saintonge.
At Plassay there was a menhir along the road. I really enjoyed today's varied ride after so many days of cycling through the forest.
May 11: Savignien - Marigny (46.9 km - 490D+)
I had read that Saint-Jean d'Angely was a charming old town. It was on my route north and I paid a short visit there.
Its roots go back to the 9th-century abbey/church that was built to house a relic (its skull) of John the Baptist preserve. The church was destroyed several times and rebuilt in a different style. The current church is unfinished. The two main towers are separated from the nave. The original Gothic church was sacked in the 16th century by Huguenots. The last reconstruction in classicist style took place in 1741, but could not be completed due to lack of funds.
The city also has a 13th-century bell tower and a beautiful covered market hall.
The landscape in this region is somewhat monotonous: undulating green maize fields interspersed with brownish fallow land.
May 12: Marigny - Vivonne (76.8 km - 410 D+)
In the middle of the night, I woke up shivering in my sleeping bag. This was the first time this trip that I was cold at night. And today during my drive, I was hit by a hailstorm and a little later by rain. The weather in 'La douche France' is rather bleak for the time of year.
The cold had made me sleep badly while I had a long cycling day ahead of me, fortunately only 2 Beaufort wind in the back.
The last 20 km after the two showers were indeed quite tough. I completed them on willpower. It was almost 7pm when I reached the campsite in Vivonne reached, just before a third shower. By the time I could pitch my tent, it was past 8pm. Tomorrow, I will take a rest day.
Els and I stopped in the town of Melle for lunch. At that time, the sun was still shining and we took a short walk in the old town. We saw the old courthouse with two Gothic towers from the 15th century and the main building from the 19th century.
Unfortunately, the old Romanesque church was Saint Savinien closed.
16 September: Opening the door at Diamondway Buddhist Centre in Tallinn The centre's meditation sessions are open
