Back on the bike. On riding south out of Berlin, in got two more unplanned tourist attractions as a gift: the long, graffiti-painted remaining part of the wall and the beautiful covered Oberbaumbrücke.
Berlin wall
I enjoyed Berlin. It is an engaging and pleasant city and I never for a moment felt unsafe there, not even to park my bike anywhere. That's nice. But after three days in the city, I am still happy to be back on my bike.
You may have forgotten after the culture overdose in Berlin: I cycle for Shatsa Organisation, a library for Tibetan children in Ladakh run by a team of inspired young Tibetans. They also want the right to experience their own culture, although China thinks not and prevents it in Tibet itself. All donations are gratefully accepted via regular bank transfer to account no BE63 8918 7405 7108 of Reach Out asbl ('Shatsa' in the Communication).
The cycling today was less pleasant, but I may have blamed myself for that. The route suggested by Komoot did not run along the green cycling routes, while parallel to the Spree ran a green route. I thought it would be a nice towpath and shifted the Komoot route, but between the river and the route was housing and the cycle paths next to the track were again very bumpy because of tree roots. After shuffling and jolting for a while, my sit bones started to feel sore and my box went numb.
Fortunately, the last 15 km were on a smoother road, but it then hilly up and down a bit. But rather that than a non-stop kakkewalk.
At the campsite, I preferred an invigorating dip in the Lake Schwerin over a shower. All scorched body parts cooled and 1€ saved.
Today I crossed the 1000km mark. Actually already in Berlin, but I didn't register the kilometres I cycled there.
Furthermore, another great day of cycling today at the Ossies. Nice quiet roads, mostly through cooling forests, with occasional stretches of agricultural land.
Muddy forest path near Golssen, Brandenburg
Komoot marked this ride as 'tough', although the distance and number of altimeters was limited. The only tougher bits were a pretty good gravel road through a forest for about three kilometres and one kilometre on a forest track with a mud section. I got off there because I didn't feel like slipping and taking a mud bath.
After about 10 kilometres, I passed a derelict brickworks. Apparently, there used to be a total of 84 brickworks in the Brandenburg region. Since 2014, they have created hiking trails between them, the "Motzen cairn hiking trail“.
Today I had a choice between a campsite at +40km and at 60km. It was hot in the afternoon and I stopped at the former, Camping site Sonnenberg. A fine, very quiet campsite.
Great cycling again. It was hot, but fortunately about 60% of the route was shaded. On average every 5km I passed a village, which in itself was nothing, on the small towns Luckau and Finsterwalde after. But those villages do offer variety while cycling.
At Finsterwalde I took my last rest on a terrace. Just as I was about to leave again, a strange man on a bicycle came by with a harness on his back to which a fan-like drive was attached. He started a whole explanation but spoke so fast I didn't understand a thing. Too bad.
Strange motorised cyclist in Finsterwalde
Around 6pm, I arrived at Grünewalder Lauch campsite, still in time to go swimming in the lake after setting up my encampment in the last rays of the sun. That lovely fresh water removes all fatigue from body and muscles. So much more pleasant than a shower.
I am now one stage ahead Dresden. You can find all my stages Antwerp - Berlin - Dresden - Prague on: https://www.komoot.com/…/2910695/-cycling-for-shatsa
Less scenic road today, more alongside major lanes. On the way, I passed some 'blocking zones' due to swine fever among wild boars. Hopefully this will not lead to mass slaughter among the common pigs, as I passed some mega-sized 'pig factories' here. What a life, poor suckers.
After about ten kilometres, I drove past the curious industrial heritage site 'Lauchhammer Biotürme'. A double set of brick towers that are the only remains of an industrial complex of over 120 hectares where coke was produced from lignite.
The coking plant produced large quantities of phenolic wastewater that was biologically treated and cleaned using bacteria in those 'bio-towers'. The towers now provide a unique setting for cultural events.
Lauchhammer Biotürme
I had left early today and the site was unfortunately still closed.
At kilometre 45 I was in Radeburg, a medium-sized town. I found a quiet town bakery there to get something to eat.
Then the toughest part of the ride actually began: about 10 km of non-stop false flat climbing, and as a dark grey thunderstorm began to form on my right, a brisk headwind also set in.
This was followed by a long dive until the bridge over the Elbe at Dresden. The thunderstorm fortunately passed by on the right; I stayed dry.
Camping site Dresden-Mockritz lies 5 km beyond the city centre. After stocking up on some food in the city centre, I looked on GoogleMaps to see if a long climb also awaited me on the other bank. Mostly flat, I was told. Yes whatte! Not a long but quite a steep climb averaging 6 per cent. Halfway up I had to de-acidify my legs for a while, but I was on the spot before 5pm. Too late to go swimming in the public swimming pond next to the campsite, but the little campsite pool remained open until 9pm. Again in chlorinated water, also refreshing, but less pleasant than natural water.
Dresden-Semper opera
After a backwards fall over a tent peg resulting in a sprained left wrist, I was dreading cycling, but all in all it was not too bad. A person quickly finds alternatives not to strain that left one. Only shifting up with my left thumb was impossible, I had to press the lever with my whole hand. Fortunately, I follow the Elb Radweg with little elevation change and I didn't need the smallest gear in front much.
First, 10 km through the suburbs of Dresden. I noticed a disproportionate number of AfD election posters hanging here. Elsewhere, the spots were more fairly distributed among CDU, SPD, FPD, die Grüne and die Linke. And the CP apparently still exists here, too.
Then onward along the beautiful Elbe cycle route through the Saxon Switzerland. There was a cycling rush there.
At the picturesque spa Rathen I stopped to eat something. When I wanted to leave again, I received a message from the German weather service that severe weather was coming from 2pm. So I decided to stop at the next campsite, 10 km away in Königstein. A right decision, almost immediately after my tent was up - including tarp against the rain - a strong thunderstorm broke out with heavy rain and squalls. All in all, I was happy because cycling is more difficult with that sore leg. Maybe it is because of the diclophenac tablets I am taking. Feeling heavier and lamer than usual, I fell into a deep coma sleep from 3pm to 5pm while the rain rattled on my tent. Didn't notice much of the thunderstorm.
Rathen on the Elbe
Königstein- Decin (30.5 km-100 alti) and Decin-Litomerice (51.8 km - 360 alti)
After the thunderstorm in Königstein Sunday afternoon, it continued to rain mildly until early morning. Good for nature. Still, I was able to leave with dry tent thanks to a brisk breeze that had picked up after the rain.
The sprained wrist started hurting more after a while on the bike because of the jarring. Therefore, I stopped already in Decin. Don't force it.
The only noteworthy fact today, apart from the beautiful Elbe panoramas, was crossing the German-Czech border. And the friendliness and casualness of the Czech camping staff: put you wherever you want; take electricity at one of the poles, the camping bistro staying open quite late.... In Germany, it was different.
Beside the Elbe
On Tuesday, I wanted to cycle a seventy and at first it seemed to work, but after kilometre 35, the bike path got hillier and bumpier with regular stretches of stony gravel. Again, not good for the wrist, which was starting to play up. I stopped at a campsite at kilometre 50.
Near the village Strekov Hrad was a large lock complex where Eurovelo cyclists were sent over a staircase. With a racing bike, OK, but with a packed touring bike? Fortunately, a Dutch cycling couple in Dresden had whispered to me that you could get around it by following the motorway for 300 metres. Useful advice I followed.
Furthermore, the only noteworthy fact this ride was my encounter at an eatery on the way with a +80-year-old Dutch solo long-distance cyclist who was cycling the 500 km Elbe route. Punishing at his age, but then he additionally told me that he had been in a bad traffic accident which doctors said he would never recover sufficiently to cycle again....
Eduard Groenhage from Groningen
So far, I really like the Czech Republic: friendly people who usually speak reasonable English (better than Germans) and casual in their dealings. Much cheaper. For the price of one German pint you have a snack here. And the two campsites I visited have an equipped camper's kitchen with fridge. As far as I'm concerned, a return visitor, but first to check it out.
Tomorrow I should be reeling off a seventy with 450 altimeters. I have already warned the Prague campsite where I made reservations that this might not work out. But I hope so. Altimeters have to go because my legs are OK. And the route is mostly asphalt, good for the pulse.
By the way: today my knuckles already reappeared. Yesterday they were still hidden under a fuzzy baby pillow. Tomorrow they will probably be a bit better again.
I wasn't sure if I was going to make the 70km to Prague today, after a bad night and with the still sore wrist.
But all the deciding factors in a bike ride were along for the ride: less warm, a brisk breeze blowing from the right direction, a flat start to warm up before the hills arrived, legs still willing to do the job and a wrist that was again better than yesterday. I can now get my fingers lifted from the handle over the brake without pain. Before that, I had to lift my hand yesterday.
The route was less scenic: two nice stretches next to the Elbe and one next to the Moldau, with two 'shortcuts in between each over a tough hill, just off a motorway with no cycle lane. But it went. Strange, now when I have to cover an altitude difference of 400, I have the feeling I have to rub my legs even more, and in mid-France and Spain last year those were the lighter rides.... And back then I rode a less suitable bike than I do now. It's all in the head, we doubt too much. To quote Nike: Just do it. I would say more cautiously: just try it, but even that is easier said than done.
At the start of the second climb, near the village Máslovice, I passed the museum of Julus Gregr (1831-1896), a Czech politician and journalist who became famous as founder and owner of the most important Czech newspaper of the 19th century: Národní listú. And also a fairly progressive politician for the time regarding the social role of clergy and nobility.
At museum Julus Gregr
I arrived in Prague from a hill on the opposite side of the old city and was immediately presented with a magnificent panorama. What an overwhelming city.
At the very end of the ride, though, there was a downside. To get to the small peninsula in Prague where the campsite is located, I had to take a mini-boat. The landing stage could only be reached via a concrete staircase with some high steps. As a result, I had to take off all the panniers and carry the whole mess and the bike down separately, and then onto the ferry. On top of that, the ferryman was unfriendly and impatient. Fortunately, there was a sweet Dutch man with four young children who helped with this, but even so, I felt sharp stabs of pain in my wrist several times during these manipulations. A bit back to square one: a few hours later it was indeed thickened again. One step forward and half back today. Better again tomorrow: sleep in and bike rest in Prague.
Prague
16 September: Opening the door at Diamondway Buddhist Centre in Tallinn The centre's meditation sessions are open
