Around the Adriatic Sea 2026: Biennale + various exhibitions

On the 'Ciclovia Adriatica'

14 September: Pinault Collection

From the exhibition by Lorna Simpson, an African-American multidisciplinary artist (photography, painting, collages, installations), I thoroughly enjoyed. She often used the magazines ‘Ebony’ and ‘Jet’ as a starting point for her work; at the time, these were found on the kitchen table of every Black family.
 
I’ll let the photos speak for themselves and, for those who are interested, I’ll include the explanatory text.
 
The exhibition Algebra by the Brazilian Paula Nazareth It appealed to me less aesthetically, but all the more as ‘food for thought’ and, potentially, ‘Action’. He is a deeply committed anti-colonial artist, and his work and lifestyle are steeped in his commitment. It is interesting to reflect on the issues he raises in his work. His art is, in fact, a visual representation of his way of life.

“Head on Ice” – Lorna Simpson

15 September: Venice Biennale

My highlights from the biennial today: love versus struggle and the feelings of a poor sod….
The Arsenale and a few of the Biennale’s satellite exhibitions. A very selective choice – the Biennale is simply too overwhelming.
 
The one I liked best was the very understated ‘Oikeiosis’ a presentation by Paulina Vagioni (Hellenistic diaspora). She takes as her starting point the philosophy of the pre-Socratic thinker Empedocles, who saw two opposing forces at work in the world: Neikos (strife) and Philotes (love).
 
And the presentation that stood out the most: a video of an anthropomorphic, talking, slimy, dripping and at times crumbling turd that splattered everywhere, addressing its audience directly. And the audience’s sometimes disgusted reactions to it. With no regard for the feelings of a poor old turd…

Paulina Vagioni (Hellenic diaspora) – Oikeiōsis

16 September: Giardini – main exhibition and national pavilions

Lots of pavilions, not that many photos
I started with the main exhibition. I’ll refer you to the photos for that, but I’d like to say a few words about one artist: the work of the Japanese Yoshiko Shimada. It was about feminism in Japan’s patriarchal society. I found her interpretation of her work interesting:
“Following the emergence of a strong anti-feminist movement in Japan in the 2000s, it became largely impossible for Shimada to exhibit her work.
 
That is why Shimada began researching the art and politics of the 1960s and 1970s, a period that paved the way for the third and fourth waves of feminism.
 
Shimada’s most recent work focuses on the feminist political group Chüpiren; this was a militant organisation that emerged in the 1970s and used street theatre as part of its activism. Recognisable by their striking pink helmets, these activists – led by Misako Enoki – for access to contraception and for sexual and reproductive health.
 
Their causes still resonate with the current struggle for women’s bodily autonomy. To this day, it remains the only feminist movement in Japan to have run a national election campaign.“
 
One piece of work that I really liked was by Hala Schoukair, Lebanon.
I didn’t take very many photos in the national pavilions. There were lots of monumental installations that you have to ‘experience’ but which are difficult to capture in a photograph.
 
Spain screened ‘Los Restos – The Remains’ by Oriol Vilanova. A comprehensive history told through thousands of postcards, arranged by theme and spread across various rooms. What a painstaking task it must have been to collect those postcards and then organise them by theme and colour as well.
 
In the Serbian pavilion, there was something similar, but with a more significant political and social dimension. Predrag Djakovic In his installation ‘Through Golgotha to Resurrection’, he documented the history of the 20th century using newspaper cuttings, banknotes, stamps, share certificates, etc.
He also painted a long, beautiful piece of text on a wall, which I could only make out in a video.
 
The Greek Andreas Angelidakis created an ‘escape room’ with funny photo effects. Playfulness, arte ludens, but with a serious message about the state of the world.
 
Australia presented a work that, at first glance, appeared static but, on closer inspection, was in a state of constant, subtle motion, whilst Japan apparently took up the ‘Have more babies’ slogan coined by our Antwerp-based civic leader Van Doesburg. Or perhaps she drew inspiration from the Japanese pavilion… An entire pavilion full of baby dolls to counter the decline in birth rates in the West.
 
Of course, a photo of the Belgian pavilion was a must, but without the performances that go with it, it doesn’t mean much.

Belgian pavilion “It never SSST” – Miet Warlop

17 September: Michael Armitage at Palazzo Grassi

Work that takes your breath away. Some of the photographs are accompanied by a detailed description.
I’ll also quote the Facebook post from Eric Rinckhout, because I can’t put it any better than that:
“Michael Armitage at Palazzo Grassi, Venice. What a painter. Political, colourful, dark, caustic, empathetic, unflinching. On migration and boat refugees, British colonial aggression, Kenyan atrocities and oppression, humanity as a victim time and again, but also lush nature and dreamlike landscapes. In a fluid style, warm and powerful. The power of art, cruel beauty.”

Covid-19 – Likoni Ferry Terminal in Mombasa

The Palazzo Grassi, where I visited the Michael Armitage exhibition, is situated right next to the Church of San Samuele dating from the 11th century. I love little churches like this, so I popped in for a look.
Sitting at the information desk was Sara. She told me, with great enthusiasm, about the cycle of the eight Sibyls housed in the church. The cycle of the Sibyls was added during the early Renaissance (15th century). These Greek prophetesses are said to have foretold important events in the life of Jesus Christ.
 
Sara saw my little Tibetan flag and we had a lovely chat. She congratulated me on this initiative, despite the situation regarding fundamental human rights in Tibet still being rather hopeless at the moment.
 
Sara is a singer and was rehearsing a score for a performance at St Mark’s Basilica. She is just as concerned as I am about the ‘state of the world’ and the trend towards greater autocracy, superficiality and electronic/AI surveillance. We’re going to try to keep in touch one way or another.
Thank you, Sara, for the lovely chat and for your whole outlook on life! It’s really uplifting.

Sara and the Church of San Samuele

23 September: Revoltella Museum of Modern Art, Trieste.

The palazzo belonged to Baron Pasquale Revoltella (1795–1869), who bequeathed it to the town after his death.
The top two floors, featuring art from the second and first halves of the 20th century, were the most interesting to me.
Lots of lovely work by Italian artists I’d never heard of before.
 
On the ground floor, you can visit a number of rooms from the original palazzo. All those lavishly painted and decorated, gold-framed state rooms and pieces of furniture aren’t really my cup of tea, but Revoltella did do a fine thing by making this palace a public asset. I only took a photo of the entrance hall with its large fountain.
Trieste now has an interesting museum to show for it.

Palazzo Museo Revoltella

This photo album is arranged chronologically. Information about the location is included in the title and/or description.

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